The Cult
The henro is a liturgy in hiking boots. At each of the eighty-eight temples the pilgrim performs the same compact rite: bow at the gate, wash, ring the temple bell, light incense, and chant the Heart Sutra before the main image — then turn to the Daishi hall and recite the mantra Namu Daishi Henjō Kongō, 'homage to the Daishi, whose illumination is the vajra,' because Kōbō Daishi is present, not remembered. The nōkyōchō stamp book and the osame-fuda name slip carry the proof of each visit, and the rings of the white staff announce the dead walking beside.
The deepest cult act happens off the island. At the Okunoin on Kōya-san the monks still carry meals to Kūkai's tomb twice a day, twelve centuries on, setting food before a master who is believed to be meditating, not gone. Shikoku's islanders complete the rite from the other side with osettai, the gifts of food and lodging that make every walker a walking altar and every doorstep a chapel.


