The Cult
Isis ran the most personal cult in antiquity. In Egypt her temples — above all Philae, with Behbeit el-Hagar in the Delta older still — kept the daily round of waking, washing, and feeding the goddess's statue, staffed by wʿb-priests and singers; her great annual event was the divine sailing, when the goddess crossed to the island of Bigeh to visit the tomb of Osiris, her barque on the Nile and the cliffs crowded with pilgrims' graffiti from Nubian to Roman times. Her sanctuaries inscribed a creed: the aretalogy that begins 'I am Isis, the sovereign lady of all lands.' Then the cult outgrew Egypt. In Greco-Roman port cities the Iseum admitted initiates of every nation, pastophoroi bearing her portable shrines through the streets; Apuleius, initiated at Cenchreae, describes the March festival of the Navigium Isidis, the goddess's ship launched to open the sailing season — the closest thing antiquity left us to a believer's eyewitness account. Rome's Iseum Campense, rebuilt under Vespasian and Domitian, stood near today's Piazza Navona, where the obelisk Domitian raised to her still stands.


